# LR5 Purple fringe vs. white balance



## redford (Jan 30, 2015)

Hi,

I am developing Canon G9 CR2, where is some purple fringe. The 'as shot' white balance is way off from the desired.
I click the purple fringe area and it nicely removes the fringe in desired areas.
But when I correct the white balance, the purple changes color and the fringe remover doesn't work anymore.

Seems to me, like in the workflow LR applies first white correction and then defringe. If it was otherwise this could work.

Anyone can confirm this experience, maybe tell me, what I should do? Or workaround?

BTW: Is there any general WB setting, when I want to see the colors as I saw it with my eyes? 
I mean, when I see white paper under reddish light, it is red. 
My goal is not to have it white on my photo, I want it same color as it was in real.

Thanx for your help
R.


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## davidedric (Feb 1, 2015)

Seems no-one wants to reply, so I'll have a go.

Starting with the fringing.  I assume what you are seeing is chromatic aberration, but it doesn't sound as if you are using those sliders to correct it.  Is that right?   And if so, have you tried them?

Coming to your general question, the short answer is no, not really.  Our eyes have an astonishing capacity to adjust when viewing a real scene that gets lost in a photograph.

Take a simple example.  It's quite snowy in the UK at the moment, and right now the sun is shining.  All the snow looks white.  But if I took a photo it wouldn't!  In the photograph, if the snow in the sun is white, the snow in the shadows would look blue, and if I set the wb so that the shadows look white, the sunlit snow would look brownish or yellowish.  There are two very different colour temperatures out there, but our eyes "know" that all the snow is "really" white - and that's what we (or at least most of us!) see.

Dave


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## Jimmsp (Feb 1, 2015)

I always set the WB first, and then if there is any chromatic aberration to correct, I do that after I have done everything else.

I also recommend that you read this article
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/e...lor_dealing_with_color_vision_anomalies.shtml
on observing color. It is technical in spots, but contains some good information on how we perceive color.


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## redford (Feb 1, 2015)

davidedric said:


> Starting with the fringing.  I assume what you are seeing is chromatic aberration, but it doesn't sound as if you are using those sliders to correct it.  Is that right?   And if so, have you tried them?
> 
> Dave


I am talking about defringe just below the chromatic aberration checkbox (checked).
But I tried following now:
currently is as shot 5100K
I clicked purple 35/64

Then I changed WB to 7500K:
Fringing appeared again
I moved the purple hue up to 70/100
It disappeared again

When I set amount to 0, clicking again doesn't work anymore...

Interesting... seems like I can use fringe color selector only at certain temperature and then move the temperature where I want it and then move purple hue.


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## acquacow (Feb 3, 2015)

Can you post a sample problem raw file?


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## redford (Feb 3, 2015)

Concerning the general white balance.
OK, I understand I cannot get the true white by default.

But, consider this situation:
I have RAW file, where I have no intention to set white. But just have it in original light. 
In my example I have some pictures of Antelope Canyon, where the camera Auto WB is totally confused. And I cannot remember the colors anymore.
Is there any starting point which should be good guess of the reality (I know...subjective), like 6500K or what?

Or other example is sunset... I don't want the white being white, I want it red

FYI antelope from other sources...
https://www.google.cz/search?q=ante...vDMIr0UuKWg8AP&ved=0CCEQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=1115


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## davidedric (Feb 3, 2015)

I think the only way is to shoot a grey card alongside your images.  I've never been to antelope canyon (i did check out your images- fantastic!) , though I have seen lots of photos.  I suspect there are lots of different colours of light bouncing around there, so you will likely need several reference shots.  The other reason to use a grey card is that this is not just about wb.  As I expect you know, wb, or colour temperature, is to do with the wavelength of light emitted by a black body at that temperature.  Antelope canyon is unlikely to behave as a black body, which is where the tint slider comes in: it works orthogonally to wb to place you anywhere (more or less) in the colour space.

However, in the end, the only person who knows what you saw is you (and I might have seen it differently).  I don't think there is a reality, just a subjectivity, so make the image please you.  Just my opinion, of course.

Dave


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## Modesto Vega (Feb 3, 2015)

Concerning white balance, I no longer set my camera to Auto WB, I set it to Daylight and change if I need to for a particular scene. My first DSLR, Nikon D40, always got white balance wrong when using Auto WB.

Concerning fringing. Are you enabling profile corrections? The reason for the question is that I have recently noticed that certain lens profiles supplied with Lightroom appear to aggravate, even introduced fringing.


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## acquacow (Feb 4, 2015)

Assuming you weren't there at night, you'd pick some daylight white balance around 5000-5500K.

If it was cloudy, 5500-6500K...

Look to a few of your other photos from the day for any reference points you can use to set WB as well.
5200-5500K
5200-5500K


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## redford (Feb 4, 2015)

acquacow said:


> Can you post a sample problem raw file?



http://ulozto.net/xmqUPRSq/img-7815fix-cr2

Muir woods.
Cracky bark on the distant trunk in the middle left has purple contours.
When I click the wb on shoes, I get around 7500K.


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## redford (Feb 4, 2015)

Who's interested in Antelope.

http://ulozto.net/xHfbRXPK/img-2391fix-cr2

On one of other pictures I found a man with white hair. So I tried that on WB and got around 6000K -45tint.


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## acquacow (Feb 5, 2015)

Remember that the white balance tool is going to get you...white, often times bluish white...

With all the red stone reflecting light and coloring things, a white balance tool won't give you the actual white of being there in person.
It's not a bad place to start, but I usually need to push things warmer a few clicks to make them more natural.

I just grabbed the two files, will look at them in a bit.

Thanks.


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