# B+ W Conversion How do YOU do it?



## flashpixx (Jul 7, 2012)

Found this from Mansurovs, what is your procedure in LR4?

Sorry if this is a double post, I've searched but not found anything.


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## johnbeardy (Jul 7, 2012)

Only use the B&W panel, method (a) in the article. And use the targeted adjustment tool, which he (or she) doesn't seem to mention. He (or she) fails to explain using the HSL panel (method c) was only a workaround for a bug in Lr1, and like (b) the Saturation slider is little more than a way of convincing people they must be doing doing something more sophisticated because they're dragging more sliders and spending more time doing something. Also, b and c prevent you distinguishing b&w images from colour ones via the filter or smart collections, so they make you even more inefficient. Also, re point 2 do your Basic panel corrections properly first, before going B&W, and revisit it only to fine tune - don't leave it until after your B&W. In other words, I find that article at times perverse and at times misleading!

John


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## flashpixx (Jul 7, 2012)

Thanks John

I've had a look at your various sites, blogs etc... and a book or two!

From your Blog:



> What is the best wayto make pictures black and white?Go to the B&W panel in Develop’s right hand side and activate the targeted adjustment tool. That’s the little button at the top left of the B&W panel. It makes the cursor look like a pair of arrows which you can drag on the image itself. As you drag, LR moves the sliders for you.Drag up and you lighten how that area appears in greyscale, downward darkens it. This method means you keep your eye on the picture all the time you are adjusting it – much better than guessing which slider you should drag – and it means you always produce a better black and white version, and faster too.​


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## johnbeardy (Jul 7, 2012)

At least I'm consistent! One of the problems that I've seen over the years, especially with Photoshop, is that 20 years of obsolete methods now co-exist with more recent and better ways to work, but too many of those who teach or write about the subject are never willing to take a view and say the old ways should be seen as educational - but not used. So only the other day a Photoshop magazine did a blog post with alternative B&W methods, and they called it "10 other ways to try". Please, no! There was nothing to say each method had serious flaws in terms of flexibility, lack of visual feedback, or their inability to map colours to separate greyscale tones, which is so crucial in b&w. Instead of saying the methods are obsolete you get "if it works for you", "YMMV" or other ways of evading a judgement. It's like going to the doctor and he says one way you can cure that fever by rubbing yourself with some nettles from behind the surgery or by getting some leeches and letting them feed on your arm. Well sure, you can certainly get old practices to work for you (not sure about leeches though), but you can get best practice to work at least as well.

/rant 

John


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## johnbeardy (Jul 7, 2012)

By the way, this is good http://mulita.com/blog/?p=1244


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## flashpixx (Jul 7, 2012)

Thanks again, I'll look into your book too "Advanced Digital Black & White Photography"


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## johnbeardy (Jul 7, 2012)

Lance?


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## flashpixx (Jul 7, 2012)

johnbeardy said:


> Lance?



Nope, Gordon.

Lance is in Sydney and a much better photog than me. I use a Nikon D3s and shoot primarily motorsport.


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## johnbeardy (Jul 7, 2012)

I need to thank someone for something and thought it must be you. Never mind.


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## flashpixx (Jul 8, 2012)

What are peoples opinions on using a dedicated mono conversion software package like Silver Efex Pro 2?

For those that use it they seem to be very impressed, especially V2. But there is also that camp that suggests that LR does as good a job.

If one were to leave aside any workflow or integration issues and just focus on the final image, which would provide the "best" image, and do so in an efficient and intuitive way.

I must say one thing that does provide some intrigue in Silver Efex is the ability to have a single element in an image in colour, and the border option.


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## macjim (Jul 8, 2012)

flashpixx said:


> Found this from Mansurovs, what is your procedure in LR4?
> 
> Sorry if this is a double post, I've searched but not found anything.



It'll depend on the mood I'm in. If I'm lazy, I'll convert within Lightroom 4.1 but if I want to do a better job for those photographs I think need that bit of extra care, I'll export out to Nik Software's Silver Efecs Pro 2 and work on it there. Before exporting I'll crop to the size I want and maybe sharpen. Sometimes I'll do this after importing the photographs from the camera and other times I'll do the editing a good while after. Also, it's sometimes worth looking back at some of your older B&W conversions as you might be able to do a better edit than originally especially since the Softwares have been upgraded.


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## johnbeardy (Jul 8, 2012)

Each can produce an equally "best" image, in terms of pixel quality, tonal gradation, sharpness. But specifically how do you define best? Grain? SFX is better and more realistic - but be careful not to assume B&W means grain. Fancy borders - SFX is good. And so on. SFX is very good.

However, I think you can stay in both camps. Have you ever heard Ansel Adams's line about the negative is the score and the print is a performance? In that way LR and Silver Efex Pro are like handing a guitarist a Rickenbacker instead of his Fender. The tune may be the same but it's going to look different.

But you probably knew that's my view! I'll drop out and leave it for others.

John


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## flashpixx (Jul 8, 2012)

OK toe in the water...

here are a couple done in LR4. I was careful in selecting these two. I'd be good to do some reading on what makes a good B&W image... If it is covered in your book John, I have it on order from The Book Depository.


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## happycranker (Jul 10, 2012)

I mainly use SFX for my B&W work, the control using U-Point is the one thing that stands out as a way to adjust and fine control different areas of the picture. Plus the contrast and structure adjustments really do make subtle differences to the overall balance. I do use LR B&W for creating partly coloured images using the saturation brush to paint over areas where I want to retain the colour.


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