# How to get such sharpen images?



## terry7cook (Apr 6, 2014)

Hi,

There is a wedding photographer I follow which has amazing photos, I know he uses the Canon 1DX which helps him a lot with getting such images, but is also a lot of retouching in lightroom here.

Here are few examples from his page:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

I use the 5DMK3 which is also great, but never get even close results to what you see here, does anyone know how to make the pictures looks so sharp through lightroom?
BTW I know of some other photographers who uses the 1DX as well and don't get the same high end result, it's a lot of lightroom work to get it...

Thanks.


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## Jack Henry (Apr 6, 2014)

One thing I've just done to improve the sharpness of my images was to actually get them in focus. I calibrated my lenses using the SpyderLensCal. I didn't realise they were so far out. My Nikon (as will your 5D) allows for fine tuning your autofocus for each lens.


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## Replytoken (Apr 6, 2014)

These images appear quite saturated, among other things.  Perhaps you could show an image of yours that you would like to better post process?  This may help guide any advice offered.

--Ken


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## terry7cook (Apr 6, 2014)

Replytoken said:


> These images appear quite saturated, among other things.  Perhaps you could show an image of yours that you would like to better post process?  This may help guide any advice offered.
> 
> --Ken


Here are 2 of my pics:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...017.1073741849.405824096214860&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/Zoom18phot...13988670483/10153896059750484/?type=1&theater

What do you mean by saying saturated? And among other things? You said it all


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## terry7cook (Apr 6, 2014)

Jack Henry said:


> One thing I've just done to improve the sharpness of my images was to actually get them in focus. I calibrated my lenses using the SpyderLensCal. I didn't realise they were so far out. My Nikon (as will your 5D) allows for fine tuning your autofocus for each lens.



Never heard of this product before, thanks.


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## Replytoken (Apr 6, 2014)

terry7cook said:


> Here are 2 of my pics:
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...017.1073741849.405824096214860&type=1&theater
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/Zoom18phot...13988670483/10153896059750484/?type=1&theater
> ...



Hi,

First, Facebook is not the best place to critically view images.  They are known to highly compress images, and that can have a very negative impact on the quality of the image.  So, it is hard to get overly critical (in terms of offering suggestions) because we are viewing less than optimal images.

With regards to my saturation comment, the greens in the images that the other photographer posted seem awfully saturated, IMHO.  I was not there when the photos were taken, but I do not normally see greens that are quite that vibrant.  I suspect that some saturation was increased when the images were post-processed.  Or, if they were shot as jpeg files, then the camera settings were set to increase the color saturation.

Regarding your photos, I think that your composition is good, but I cannot really get into the technical details because the images do not easily allow detailed criticism (see comment above about FB).  I am not sure how much you have used LR, but a few tutorials would probably help you to master sharpening, a concern in your original post.  And if the majority of your work will be posted on the web, as opposed to being printed, than the difference between his camera and your camera is really very little.

Good luck,

--Ken


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## CloudyBright (Apr 13, 2014)

If I may suggest:
Upload one of your images in RAW in a zip file.
Let users here download your image and process it - to see what can be done in Lightroom - then they can upload the finished image.
Anyone?


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## siloxr (Apr 18, 2014)

Those look like HDR, Brenizer method, or some other sort of multishot compositing (like maybe focus stacking too?) technique to me.  
HDR:  http://digital-photography-school.com/19-beautiful-examples-of-hdr-done-right/
Brenizer Method:  http://blog.buiphotos.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/

That said, if your goal is sharpness, make sure you're shooting in the sharpest zone for your camera/lens combo (specifically ISO and f-stop)--Google should be able to help you here.  

Lr can do HDR, but I'm not sure if you can do Brenizer in Lr.


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## terry7cook (Apr 22, 2014)

I have worked on few of my images and did all the editing so it will have a similar look as much I could.
The result is pretty nice, but if you have 200 photos there is no possible way you can implement that on all of them...
And  also the Brenizer technique, you can't do that for 100-200 photos,  maybe 1-3 and that's it, the other photographer have lot's of this type  of photos from a single wedding, obviousely he 
came out with a way in lightroom to make this easier.

Here is my picture:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22733428/_MG_0105.jpg


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 24, 2014)

Have you tried asking the photographer who is producing the look that you like?  Maybe he/she will tell you what they are doing.


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## terry7cook (Apr 24, 2014)

Bryan Conner said:


> Have you tried asking the photographer who is producing the look that you like?  Maybe he/she will tell you what they are doing.



No way he is going to explain this, it's exactly as asking him his workflow so I can copy it..
And I really don't want to copy just to take this "sharpness part".


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 24, 2014)

terry7cook said:


> No way he is going to explain this, it's exactly as asking him his workflow so I can copy it..
> And I really don't want to copy just to take this "sharpness part".


The worst that can happen is that he will say no.  I have asked other photographers questions such as this and some of them have provided the answer.  Lots of photographers like to share their knowledge with others.


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## awp (Apr 25, 2014)

I think it has far more to do with the quality of light in his images.  Your first image is under exposed and you're using on camera flash.  He's using sunlight and off camera flash.  That is the starting point - you need to improve the images in camera before you start worrying about processing.


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## IanGains58 (Apr 26, 2014)

I'm another fan of the Spyder Lens Cal, especially if you use longer telephoto lenses. You adjust the back-focus of the lens, essentially calibrating the focus to be as sharp as the lens/sensor combination allow. I'm a 7D user, so this is extremely important with the APS-C sensor, with the further magnification factor.
You can always soften 'sharp' images, but there is only so much you can do with images that aren't pin sharp on capture.


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## Nogo (Apr 26, 2014)

Those photos to me look like the photographer simply used the medium or strong contrast setting under the point curve setting in the Tone Curve Box.  Would be no problem applying that to hundreds of photos.  Try that to some of your photographs and see if they "look sharper" to you. 

 I sometimes use the medium contrast setting when I have a flat looking photo taken in poor light and it will make the picture look sharper even if it is not truly sharpening the image.  If you do it to a photo that looked decent to start, it will give it an extra sharp look in my opinion.


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## Jack Henry (Apr 26, 2014)

gainsi said:


> I'm another fan of the Spyder Lens Cal, especially if you use longer telephoto lenses. You adjust the back-focus of the lens, essentially calibrating the focus to be as sharp as the lens/sensor combination allow. I.



How far do you stand back with the telephoto when using the SpyderLensCal ?


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## IanGains58 (Apr 27, 2014)

I've used the SpyderLensCal with my 70-300ml L, 100 mm L macro, & the 24-105mm L. In all 3 cases, I used the max focal length at the maximum aperture. I stood about 7-12m from the tripod with the target on it. I took three shots at -4, 0, +4 and picked the best, & then narrowed down the range to get the best result. So long as you dial out any huge difference from the original setting, the exercise is worth it. The logic says that all focal lengths should be good after doing this, so maybe check out another focal length while you are at it.


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## Jack Henry (May 1, 2014)

Thanx gainsi. 

I did my zooms at the short end of the range but may check the other end too. After all, that's the end I generally use them at.


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## IanGains58 (May 1, 2014)

I'd certainly check them Jack, as that is the critical part of the range where errors will be magnified. I do a fair bit of aircraft photography at Melbourne Airport, so the 70-300mm L gets a lot of use on moving targets, & it performs very well.


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## terry7cook (May 1, 2014)

Thanks to all of you for commenting, happily I have ordered the Canon 1DX yesterday, it should be here around next week, I don't think that I will have any problem at all in the next and far future with sharpness 

I will upload few photos with the new camera to see the difference.


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## Jack Henry (May 1, 2014)

I was at Melbourne airport last week. It was wet and miserable. I flew over to bring  a horse truck back to Adelaide for a friend   Red eye over and back here by 6:00 pm. Nice drive apart from the first couple of hours in the rain.


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## 1fastvx (May 14, 2014)

*terry7cook*,

You never mention what lenses you are shooting with, this could make a huge difference sharpness wise!!

John


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## terry7cook (May 14, 2014)

1fastvx said:


> *terry7cook*,
> 
> You never mention what lenses you are shooting with, this could make a huge difference sharpness wise!!
> 
> John


Sorry 
I have the 24-70 2.8 canon. And canon 70-200 2.8. Awsome lenses!
both of them are less a year old, and haven't been used a lot.


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## Derelict (Dec 7, 2016)

So, is this possible through LR6? I know that I can do stitching, although I have never tried it, but it is something that I want to take a shot at. I do not, and will not ever, have any interest in purchasing PS. I like LR as it is closer to darkroom techniques where you modify/ tweak rather than create a photograph. 

I do, however, want to give this method a go. Has anyone tried it?


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## Jack Henry (Dec 8, 2016)

Another method I use to check the lens focus is 'Dot-Tune' and as an added benifit, it's free. See this Youtube clip about the method.


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## terry7cook (Apr 6, 2014)

Hi,

There is a wedding photographer I follow which has amazing photos, I know he uses the Canon 1DX which helps him a lot with getting such images, but is also a lot of retouching in lightroom here.

Here are few examples from his page:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...20332921.33259.163038603719196&type=1&theater

I use the 5DMK3 which is also great, but never get even close results to what you see here, does anyone know how to make the pictures looks so sharp through lightroom?
BTW I know of some other photographers who uses the 1DX as well and don't get the same high end result, it's a lot of lightroom work to get it...

Thanks.


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## Paul B (Dec 8, 2016)

And a _far_ cheaper alternative to Spyder Lens Cal ... DSLRKIT Lens Focus Calibration Tool Alignment Ruler: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo. This has a smaller centre target than the Spyder so focussing longer than 10m with a wide angle isn't so clever. I was easily able to calibrate a Sigma Art 50mm lens which has four focus distance 'zones'. Calibrating any tele lens should be easy.


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## Cerianthus (Dec 8, 2016)

There are several print your own/ construct your own targets like that on the internet. Magic lantern offers an automated dottune. There is also commercial software/target available. 


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


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## Paul B (Dec 8, 2016)

Cerianthus said:


> There are several print your own/ construct your own targets like that on the internet.


True. The reason why I bought that one was that it's stiff, reasonably stable and it's easy to get the 45º calibration scale and vertical target; it's a bit more faff with paper, scissors and Sellotape.


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## CK_Music (Jan 19, 2017)

Lightroom's sharpening function isn't very good in my opinion.  If you have photoshop duplicate the image layer and apply the high pass filter. For my 16MP camera I use between 1.5 and 2.5 on the filter parameters.  You'll need more or less depending on your pixel count.  Zoom and and make sure the filter is only really highlighting the edges and then set the layer to overlay.  Works amazingly well!


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## Cerianthus (Jan 19, 2017)

i think you would need to read this thread:
Detail Slider question
including the free chapter from the digital negative book Maximizing Image Detail in Lightroom or Camera Raw | Maximizing Image Detail | Peachpit


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## Bernard (Jan 31, 2017)

IMHO, to get sharp looking images the quality of the lens AND the aperture used are the most important factors (assuming sufficient speed) , post processing being only secondary.
Many wedding photographers use lenses like for example the Sigma 85 mm f/1.4  , open at f/2 . When the focus is done correctly , the subject is sharp, everything else is more or less out of focus (bokeh), and the 'subjective' impression of sharpness is extremely high.


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## Tony Jay (Jan 31, 2017)

I would suggest researching the word "accutance".
Accutance in photography refers to apparent sharpness and clarity of detail.
It is not merely applicable to post-processing.
Several posts have correctly and accurately mentioned the role of in-camera technique, light quality etc in producing apparent accutance.

Sharpening (in post-processing) does play a role in accutance but not only are the two terms not interchangeable (sharpness and accutance), but sharpening is far from the only post-processing intervention that modifies accutance.

Tony Jay


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