# [FIX] Darker prints and color shifts when printing from LR2



## Samoreen

Hi,

*The problem*

When printing RAW or TIFF files from LR2, you get a printer output that is much darker than it should be and that presents various color shifts.

I'm using an Epson Stylus Pro 38'' with the latest Windows driver (6.5' - which is rather old by the way). The workaround described below works for me under Windows XP SP3. It should also probably work with other systems/printers/drivers. Use at your own (minor) risk.

*The "official" and recommended procedure for printing from LR is as follows*:

1. Do not let the printer manage colors and select "Other..." from the profile dropdown list and select the ICC/ICM paper/printer profile that you want to use. 
2. Click on Print... in LR which opens the Print Settings dialog.
3. Select the options you need and the paper you're using.
4. *Disable the color management on the driver's side* (in Epson's drivers, "Mode | Custom | No Color Adjustments").
5. Print

Unfortunately, *this doesn't work* for many of us and this produces a print that is dark and has color shifts as mentioned above. Note that the same image prints correctly from QImage or Photoshop CS3 (that is, the printer output corresponds to what you see on your calibrated display).

*Note*: If you decide to let the printer manage colors, you'll get even more problems.

Apparently, although color management has been (allegedly) disabled in the driver, there's something wrong between LR and the driver which makes that *both* LR and the driver are still trying to manage colors. In other words, the "No Color Adjustements" option of the driver doesn't seem to work with LR.

*The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and expensive ink wasting)*:

In step #4,

1. Instead of selecting "No Color Adjustments", set Mode to "Custom | ICM"
2. Click Advanced...
3. Check "Show all profiles".
4. Select Driver ICM (Advanced)"
5. Set *both* the "Input profile" and the "Printer profile" fields to the very same profile that you specified in LR.

That is, if you specified Pro38 PGPP (Premium Glossy Photo Paper) in LR, then also select Pro38 PGPP in both "Input Profile" and "Printer Profile". This has actually the same effect as disabling color management in the driver (what "No Color Adjustements" should normally take care of).

That's it. When printing, you'll get exactly the same color results as when printing from QImage or Photoshop. No more dark prints. No more color shifts.

One might think that the bug is in the Epson driver but in that case, QImage would have the very same problem. So I tend to think that the bug is on the Lightroom side.

Note: Although Photoshop CS3 produces a correct printer output, it demonstrates the same problem as LR when using the "Match Print Color" option for soft proofing. But in that case, only the preview colors are wrong. The printer output is ok. Which also tends to demonstrate that Adobe has the problem, not Epson. Or maybe both... 

Don't ask me why some users have the problem and others don't.

Hope this helps.

_*Update*_

According to my experience with LR3, this problem has apparently been fixed by Adobe (at least, this is what I observe when printing with my Epson Stylus Pro 38'').


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## roguebutterfly

*My personal printing breakthrough*

I've been struggling to get predictable output from what I see on screen onto paper for a long time. It seemed like every print was a one off, with plenty of wasted prints along the way. Color cast,  overall dark and other color matching issues always seemed to be there.

I think I may have finally had a breakthrough. I had been using Huey as a display calibrator and it is fine for what it does. However I just got a Pantone Colormunki Design and calibrated my papers and display to each other by creating my own ICC profiles. Now letting LR control color management and turning off Color Management in the Print Options takes care of the color matching and cast issues. The darkness in the end was my operator error. Although Huey will measure ambient light and adjust the brightness level to match it, it can be trumped by going into the Display Preferences (Mac) and telling the OS to keep it at maximum brightness. By manually setting the brightness of the display, the image too would have to be adjusted to result in matching output on paper. So with the addition of more exposure, brightness or fill light to compensate, the result is exactly what I am looking for.


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## Victoria Bampton

Thanks for posting this Patrick!


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## Locheil

MainSoft said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> *The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and expensive ink wasting)*:
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Thanks!.... I've just been through the same process wasting ink & paper, now at least my LR2 prints look like my Qimage prints pre-custom tweaks.

Regards,
Alan


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## CB357

Just to add the Patrick's great advice, the process is just slightly different if you're using a Canon MX series printer.

Printer Settings
1. Open Printer Properties and select the (Canon) paper you're using ie Matte, Glossy, Plus Glossy etc.
2. Set print quality to High
3. Set Colour/Intensity to Manual and click Select
4. Click the Matching tab and select ICM, and select Adobe RGB (1998 from the Drop Down box
5. Make sure that none of the boxes are selected under the Effects tab
6. Save all these setting as a Custom Profile if you wish

Lightroom Settings - Print Module
1. Select Media type to match the paper type entered into the Printer settings ie Matte or Glossy
2. Colour Management Profile - select Other and you will be presented with the profiles for canon papers. To decode, use the following guide

R1 = Photo Paper Pro (print quality level 1)
PR2 = Photo Paper Pro (quality level 2)
SP1 = Photo Paper Plus Glossy (quality level 1)
MP1 = Matte Photo Paper (quality level 1)
MP2 = Matte Photo Paper (quality level 2)

SG2 = Photo Paper Semi Gloss (quality level 2)
GL2 = Photo Paper \Glossy (quality level 2)

so if you're using Canon's MP-1'1 Matte paper then select MP2 for example. You should then see something like Canon MX85' series MP2 for the Profile

3. Select Perceptual as the Rendering Intent

The above process has worked well for me, and as with Patrick after wasting a lot of ink and paper, but what I see on my screen now very closely resembles what is printed (well for me at least) :cheesy:

If it helps, I'm running XP SP3, a Dell SP2''8FP monitor, an nVidia GeForce 86''GT card and calibrated with a Spyder2Express.

Hope this helps


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## Victoria Bampton

Thanks for adding that Chris!  

I'm going to sticky this thread, and transfer the appropriate posts into Tips & Tricks.


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## wblink

CB357;2'999 said:
			
		

> Just to add the Patrick's great advice, the process is just slightly different if you're using a Canon MX series printer.
> 
> Printer Settings
> 2. Set print quality to High
> 3. Set Colour/Intensity to Manual and click Select
> 4. Click the Matching tab and select ICM, and select Adobe RGB (1998) from the Drop Down box
> Hope this helps


 

I followed your instructions, with no luck. The things that confuse me:

Printerquality high: most tell me to choose manual.
Most tell me me to NOT select ICM, but following your instructions I did. But there I could not find any drop down box to set the colorspace, so that may well be my problem: all things you did don't change anythng for me: too much magenta.

You've opened another opportunity for me: the colorspace in the printerdriver. I will search for that and if I find something will let it know here. For te time being om my next free 2 hours or so I will build a new profile with the spyder print module, that is the only thing that helped me. If I succeed in that I will try to make the profile available, but don't expect it in a few days: busy time, even no time to do any photographing (I even take my camera with me in my car now, just in case ....).

Thanks for your help.


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## CB357

Hi Willem

1. Printer quality should be on the Main tab (just under Media Type etc - I'm assuming you're using a Canon printer) , and you need to select High (quality)
2. You get to ICM via Color/Intensity. Select Manual and the the Set button will take you to Color Adjustment. Don't select anything there, but click on the Matching tab. There you can select ICM and then Adobe RGB 1998 OR select None (you may need to experiment to see which gives you the 'best' results - I found if you're using Adobe RGB 1998 as the color space for LR2 and Photoshop, this gives good results, if you're using ProPhoto then None is the way to go
3. The only other thing you need to check is you paper size, orientation and quality.
4. Perceptual will give a slightly 'lighter' print than Relative (in my experience)

Making sure you're using the right paper profile is absolutely essential

Hope this helps

Chris


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## achrysos

Would it be possible to have the advice given here translated for a Mac user, please? Thanks in advance.

I've been following this and other threads on this forum on printing from LR2 closely as, since upgrading to LR2 and buying a new Canon Pro9''' printer, I haven't been getting the quality of prints I would expect from these two quality products. Prints come out too dark, with color cast and non-vibrant colors. For example, black & white prints come out with a reddish/blue color cast; yellows and reds are far less vibrant than what is on the screen.

Suspicious of LR2 and frustrated by the amount of paper and ink I've wasted, I tried one more test and discovered something (although it wouldn't surprise me if others here were already aware and I'm only just catching up!). I exported to a jpeg from the print module (using Adobe RGB1998 color space) and used the Canon Easy-Print utility which came with my printer to print the image. It came out perfect!!

I have my monitor color calibrated and printer paper profiles - so what can it be, it can only be something in LR2, right?


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## Samoreen

achrysos;215'' said:
			
		

> Would it be possible to have the advice given here translated for a Mac user, please? Thanks in advance.


 
Hi,

Look at this page (bottom of the page):

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/lr_13_print/lightroom_print.htm

What they are doing is similar to what I did under Windows, I guess (although I never worked with a Mac). The difference is that we do not have ColorSync under Windows.


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## achrysos

Thanks for all your help - however, I'm still very frustrated by this.  I looked at the page you refer to Patrick and followed the instructions (in fact my profiles seemed to be set up correctly in the ColorSync utility). So I tried a print last night but it still came out dark, missing all the highlights and 'pop' seen on the screen.

So I've downloaded the trial version of PSE6 and will see what printing from there will do - I ran out of paper so couldn't try last night! 

This is really frustrating - I love LR2, and I believe that the Canon Pro9''' is a really good printer, but they just don't seem to be working well together!! Is anybody else finding this or is it just me? 

I guess the last thing I should try to do is to get a custom profile based on a color swatch printed out from the printer and use that instead of the canon provided profiles, but I don't have the appropriate h/ware or s/ware to do that. Before that, I'll see how the print outs from PSE6 look and report back...


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## emyri

The solution provided in this thread would probably solve my problems when printing from LR2 also.  I watch the tutorials on NAPP and follow them religiously and always end up with dark color-cast prints.  I've calibrated my monitor with Spyder2, downloaded the premium paper ICC profiles from Epson and still the prints suck.  Can anyone translate these directions for an Epson SP22'' user?  I can't seem to find the Mode/ICM stuff.  Thanks for any help.  Just joined the  Forum today and I think I will be a frequent visitor.  Thanks again.


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## Kiwigeoff

emyri;22'71 said:
			
		

> The solution provided in this thread would probably solve my problems when printing from LR2 also.  I watch the tutorials on NAPP and follow them religiously and always end up with dark color-cast prints.  I've calibrated my monitor with Spyder2, downloaded the premium paper ICC profiles from Epson and still the prints suck.  Can anyone translate these directions for an Epson SP22'' user?  I can't seem to find the Mode/ICM stuff.  Thanks for any help.  Just joined the  Forum today and I think I will be a frequent visitor.  Thanks again.



Mac or PC???


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## wblink

CB357 said:


> Hi Willem
> 
> 1. Printer quality should be on the Main tab (just under Media Type etc - I'm assuming you're using a Canon printer) , and you need to select High (quality)
> 2. You get to ICM via Color/Intensity. Select Manual and the the Set button will take you to Color Adjustment. Don't select anything there, but click on the Matching tab. There you can select ICM and then Adobe RGB 1998 OR select None (you may need to experiment to see which gives you the 'best' results - I found if you're using Adobe RGB 1998 as the color space for LR2 and Photoshop, this gives good results, if you're using ProPhoto then None is the way to go
> 3. The only other thing you need to check is you paper size, orientation and quality.
> 4. Perceptual will give a slightly 'lighter' print than Relative (in my experience)
> 
> Making sure you're using the right paper profile is absolutely essential
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Chris


 
Right, thank you.
After choosing ICM I cannot find any way to adjust the colorprofile. If I do NOT click ICM I can choose "PrintType" and "Brightness".


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## Katherine Mann

I wonder if, given that correctly following a method which is supposed to work, results are still not correct, that it might not be a good plan to back up one step to the calibration of the monitor. 

Using a Spyder system, you might end with a slightly incorrect calibration if you are not extremely careful to follow instructions, some of which might be easy to misconstrue. I am working with a Viewsonic monitor which isn't bad, but isn't pro level. It works for me. I found that it is important in the extreme to set the monitor to factory settings before beginning to calibrate the RGB factors. This is especially important regarding constrast and brightness. Once set - this factor must never change - and it is easy to reset the thing when cleaning with a light cloth between calibration, or bumping the buttons &c. The choice of brightness and constrast controls and whether your monitor is backlit or not is also significant. 

I'm not saying that this is a solution, but it might help someone, and I offer this post in that spirit.


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## achrysos

Hi everybody,

I'm back after some more testing and would really appreciate some Guru help here as I beginning to believe that the problem lies with LR2 and how it does it's color management (I didn't have this problem with LR1.x).

I followed the advice given by everybody here and followed the link given by MainSoft to Ian Lyons' page and followed that advice but to no avail. I have some screen grabs for you all to see as that helps to illustrate the problem I'm having. I set up according to all the advice and press the print button, but instead of printing I select 'Preview' from the dialogue. The rendition that comes up in the Preview app accurately reflects what I get from the printer (I hope that I haven't violated any color management laws by doing so!). I've chosen a B&W image that I've been working with recently as it shows the effect most obviously.

The first screen grab shows what I get when I let LR2 manage the color profile (you can see the settings I used):

http://www.jach.hawaii.edu/~acc/LR-managed.png

The washed out effect is clear to see (clicking the softproof button on/off has no effect). Now when I let the printer manage the colors I get the following:

http://www.jach.hawaii.edu/~acc/Printer-managed.png

There are some subtle differences (as you would expect!) but it is much-much closer to what is on the LR2 screen! eh?! 

For completion, the next couple of images show what I get when I export the images to jpgs. In the first I use the standard AdobeRGB 1998 profile, and in the second I use the color profile of the canon paper (SP1) I'm using with my Canon PIXMA Pro9'''. I realise that this is the wrong thing to do but, again, it illustrates the problem I'm having:

http://www.jach.hawaii.edu/~acc/export.jpg

http://www.jach.hawaii.edu/~acc/export-sp1-profile.jpg

Sorry, I seem to have gone on a bit! I notice that there have been an increasing number of posts about bad prints from LR2 on this forum, so I just hope the screen grabs can help somebody who knows what their doing (..help us gurus!!!..) solve this for all of us! Certainly, Adobe should be laying in, shouldn't they (and I don't doubt that in the backgound, they are!)?

Cheers
Antonio


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## okuma

Just tried Pat's work around - EURIKA = it works.

Thanks


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## achrysos

okuma said:


> Just tried Pat's work around - EURIKA = it works.
> 
> Thanks




Mac or PC?


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## achrysos

I just read the following post over at 'the other forum' :

http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.59b673aa/'

The first post (by Don) says that most printer profiles don't work in 64bit mode. A large bell started ringing in my head – I have been running LR2 in 64bit mode - could this be the source of my problems? What effect does checking the '16bit output' box have in this context?

I'm away from home right now and so cannot try this for a few days - would be grateful if somebody could try.... please?!


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## achrysos

Well, that seems to have been the source of the problem I was having. Finally got back home and switched LR2 from 64bit to 32bit and the prints came out.... just right!

Thanks all!

Until this is solved (this one is down to Canon I guess) it will be frustrating to switch between the two modes just for printing - but at least I'll get the prints I want!


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## CB357

Glad to hear that your problem is solved - its always the 'little' things that get you in the end


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## kjclunis

*Color shifts in Print Module with LR2*

I too have the problem of not being able to print with the the color profile selected in LR2. (LR1 was okay).
To save paper and get faster results, select the "Preview " mode in the printer software. Then you can actually see the results on screen.
Curiously if you select "Draft Mode Printing" in LR, it does indeed use the printer profiles (I think - anyway the colors are correct).
Many thanks to the originator who also provided a wa. I think Adobe should know about this as it seems to be prevalent.
I will try the work around suggested.


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## kjclunis

*Color shifts in Print Module with LR2*

I tried several, if not all of the suggested work arounds to the color shift while printing from LR2. For the most part they did not work for my problem but they all had some affect on the output print.
While searching for ICC profiles, I came across this Tech note from Red River Paper:
*Color Profile Usage Tech Bulletin*
When using any ICC profile with Photoshop, *DO NOT* use your printer drivers print with preview function. We are NOT talking about Photoshop print with preview! We are referring to the printer software preview function that is available on most printers.
Photoshop's print with preview is necessary to use profiles and should provide you a sufficent view of what the print will look like. Using the Epson or Canon print with preview may cause your prints to come out with a pink hue.
You can find this on this website:
http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/bulletin.htm
I de-selected the Preview before printing and it did the trick. I hope some of you can try this to see if it works for you.


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## achrysos

Ken

If you look up at my post (9-14-2''8 ) you'll see that I've put some examples there which shows that the Preview (for a Mac at least) comes out with something which has little resemblance to what you see in LR2. The differences are especially dramatic when you ask LR to do the color management and when you let the printer do it. I realise that you shouldn't then print from the Preview, but I thought it illustrated the problem I was having well, and I was hoping that it would provide more clues for the experts here.

The real solution to my problem came in switching between 32bit and 64bit, and using LR2 in 32bit mode for printing. However, when I do the same thing with the Preview while in 32bit, I still get a very poor comparison with what I see in LR2.

Now I don't know if that is expected and that Preview does it's own color management which screws around with what LR2 did in preparing the image for the printer. Maybe I stumbled onto something, but maybe it's only a wild goose flapping after a red herring.

(sorry, it's late in the day here - time to go home!!)

Ant.


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## kjclunis

*Re: color shift in Preview*

It appears that you have several problems going on at once while I am dealing with only one, namely: Pink cast (color shift) if, and only if, "Preview mode" is selected in the Canon Pro9''' printer.
I feel that it is an Adobe problem - as it happens in both in CS3 and LR. To this end I have create a support case (#'18''436627) hoping that this issue will be addressed.
The reason why I feel it is a PS issue is because it only happens with those programs. Just for grins, I downloaded and installed Picasa3 and tried the print preview on my printer and it looks great - no noticable color shift.
Picasa, in case your are not familiar with it, is a freebee and designed mostly for the very casual picture taker. It is definitely not a program that I would reccomend but in this instance, it can be used to prove a point.
I am sure that I can also use the program "Digital Photo Professional" that came with my camera to achieve the same results but since it is Canon to Canon, I am sure it would work and that may not prove anything.


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## Samoreen

Hi,

*The problem*

When printing RAW or TIFF files from LR2, you get a printer output that is much darker than it should be and that presents various color shifts.

I'm using an Epson Stylus Pro 38'' with the latest Windows driver (6.5' - which is rather old by the way). The workaround described below works for me under Windows XP SP3. It should also probably work with other systems/printers/drivers. Use at your own (minor) risk.

*The "official" and recommended procedure for printing from LR is as follows*:

1. Do not let the printer manage colors and select "Other..." from the profile dropdown list and select the ICC/ICM paper/printer profile that you want to use. 
2. Click on Print... in LR which opens the Print Settings dialog.
3. Select the options you need and the paper you're using.
4. *Disable the color management on the driver's side* (in Epson's drivers, "Mode | Custom | No Color Adjustments").
5. Print

Unfortunately, *this doesn't work* for many of us and this produces a print that is dark and has color shifts as mentioned above. Note that the same image prints correctly from QImage or Photoshop CS3 (that is, the printer output corresponds to what you see on your calibrated display).

*Note*: If you decide to let the printer manage colors, you'll get even more problems.

Apparently, although color management has been (allegedly) disabled in the driver, there's something wrong between LR and the driver which makes that *both* LR and the driver are still trying to manage colors. In other words, the "No Color Adjustements" option of the driver doesn't seem to work with LR.

*The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and expensive ink wasting)*:

In step #4,

1. Instead of selecting "No Color Adjustments", set Mode to "Custom | ICM"
2. Click Advanced...
3. Check "Show all profiles".
4. Select Driver ICM (Advanced)"
5. Set *both* the "Input profile" and the "Printer profile" fields to the very same profile that you specified in LR.

That is, if you specified Pro38 PGPP (Premium Glossy Photo Paper) in LR, then also select Pro38 PGPP in both "Input Profile" and "Printer Profile". This has actually the same effect as disabling color management in the driver (what "No Color Adjustements" should normally take care of).

That's it. When printing, you'll get exactly the same color results as when printing from QImage or Photoshop. No more dark prints. No more color shifts.

One might think that the bug is in the Epson driver but in that case, QImage would have the very same problem. So I tend to think that the bug is on the Lightroom side.

Note: Although Photoshop CS3 produces a correct printer output, it demonstrates the same problem as LR when using the "Match Print Color" option for soft proofing. But in that case, only the preview colors are wrong. The printer output is ok. Which also tends to demonstrate that Adobe has the problem, not Epson. Or maybe both... 

Don't ask me why some users have the problem and others don't.

Hope this helps.

_*Update*_

According to my experience with LR3, this problem has apparently been fixed by Adobe (at least, this is what I observe when printing with my Epson Stylus Pro 38'').


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## Scotto

Hi 
I just joined the forum and the first question I had regarding darker prints from my Canon printer has been answered by Chris' 8/29 posting.  Thanks a ton!

Scotto


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## Denis Pagé

Welcome to the forums Scotto!
You will find so much more here...


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## petertang

I'm writing to see if anybody has experience with consumer grade HP printer printing in LR.  I've got a C628' and have color accuracy issue printing in LR.


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## Brad Snyder

I have an HP 625', and color fidelity is more or less random. Sometimes I get great color, sometimes a bluish cast. Can't identify/isolate the circumstances, but I don't use it for 'pro' output anyway. Unfortunately, HP doesn't do profiles for these low-end machines, (or if they do, I've never been able to locate them.) So you're stuck with printer color management, and HP's colorsmart driver software.

I'm open to suggestions as well.


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## Alex Mac

*Printing issues still*

Well I have now tried my new paper and paper profile.

If anything it is worse, I am not having very much luck here.

So I am using Ilford premium photo satin paper and the relevant profile from Ilford.

Printer properties set to:
Print quality – high
Media type – matte photo paper
Colour/Intensity – Manual
ECM - unticked
Print type – photo (the only options I have here are, Auto, photo, graphic, none)
Brightness – Normal

In Lighroom:
Print Resolution – 24' ppi
Print sharpening - low
Profile – Ilford premium profile
Rendering – Perceptual

Results:
Skins tone much too red, browns have a strong red tint to them,  the edges of people in photo are too sharp and it look like they have been superimposed on the photo.
I can now only think to try someones suggestion of trying a custom profile.

The other thing I wondered about was upgrading my Vista to 64 bit. The reason why I wondered if that made a difference is a work colleague has a 64 bit version and Lightroom prints fine on his Canon printer.

Any other thoughts would be gratefully received as this is driving me mad now!


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## Denis Pagé

gmac said:


> Print type – photo (the only options I have here are, Auto, photo, graphic, none)


If you tell Lightroom to use a profile, you do not want the printer to do its own work over it. What if you try: Print Type: None :?:


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## csalome

Thanks !
This workaround works fine.
Before, i had to lighten the image before printing. It was not satisfying.

Regards.

csalome.


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## Denis Pagé

Nice to know!


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## Alex Mac

*Thanks*

Dennis, 
Ah yes, sorry I should have seen that.

That has made I big difference, I am still not quite there but much closer than I was.

Thanks again


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## bangor

*Still a problem*

I have tried everything.  Epson R18'' still too dark.

I have calibrated again and again.  Try printing with XP Vista Mac OS 1'.4.  Downloaded latest drivers and profiles.

Tried printing RAW JPG TIFF DNG.

Tried printing with PS  Windows Image Viewer  QT.

Tried the above.  Tried turning off color management in LR and Epson.

I read something somewhere that there may have been a production problem with Epson R18'' and correct color calibration.  Any ideas or suggestions.  

Vista 64bit LR2.' Epson R18''  Canon EOS Rebel XTi


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## wblink

bangor;28'86 said:
			
		

> I have tried everything. Epson R18'' still too dark.
> 
> I have calibrated again and again. Try printing with XP Vista Mac OS 1'.4. Downloaded latest drivers and profiles.
> 
> Tried printing RAW JPG TIFF DNG.
> 
> Tried printing with PS Windows Image Viewer QT.
> 
> Tried the above. Tried turning off color management in LR and Epson.
> 
> I read something somewhere that there may have been a production problem with Epson R18'' and correct color calibration. Any ideas or suggestions.
> 
> Vista 64bit LR2.' Epson R18'' Canon EOS Rebel XTi


 
I think there is a problem with Asian printes an LR.
American people (and Europeans a little less) like ´cold´ colors (I know about by the "color" whe give to "white" paper (more blue for USA) and Asian people (aspecially China and Japan like "warm" colors.

After having tried every possible solution without any REAL succes that is the only thing I can think about.

So whe need: "BLUE" and "RED" drivers.


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## DonRicklin

bangor;28'86 said:
			
		

> I have tried everything.  Epson R18'' still too dark.
> 
> I have calibrated again and again.  Try printing with XP Vista Mac OS 1'.4.  Downloaded latest drivers and profiles.
> 
> Tried printing RAW JPG TIFF DNG.
> 
> Tried printing with PS  Windows Image Viewer  QT.
> 
> Tried the above.  Tried turning off color management in LR and Epson.
> 
> I read something somewhere that there may have been a production problem with Epson R18'' and correct color calibration.  Any ideas or suggestions.
> 
> Vista 64bit LR2.' Epson R18''  Canon EOS Rebel XTi


Your list does not include setting your monitor luminance close to 12' as recommended in UtoU threads where Eric Chan speaks of this.

What is your monitor luminance set to?

Don


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## Andrew Hayton

I had been having colour problems even with fairly recent profiles for paper/ink combination so I bit the bullet and bought a colour profiler and have created my own profiles.
What a difference it has made. I am now getting what I see on screen. It is an expensive investment but in the long term it will pay for itself as I can do profiles for others and also when I change printer or paper etc I can get a profiles right away (well within a day as you have to let the ink dry completely).


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## Denis Pagé

What model did you buyed Andew? I am looking for a Color Munki...


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## Andrew Hayton

Denis,

I thought about the colour Munki but you can't do other printers other than those connected to your printer and from what I read you had to do the reading there and then and couldn't go back. This may have changed now but I opted for the Colour Confidence Print Profiler. This allows me to go back days after printing the test sheets and also profile other printers not connected to the computer.
I am amazed at how good it is and how much it has improved things, I was starting to get dis-heartened with LR and Leopard and the colours I was getting but now I am happy again.


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## Jddolbee

I'm having similar color shift and print quality problems with my HP 698' printer. I've tried to follow the HP version of the tips shown here but get no improvement. In my case, the printer appreantly does not recognize anything from LR2.3. It always reverts back to the default. When I set the system printer defaults to ICM and the correct profile for the paper, the prints are "blaaa", i.e. soft, poor color, etc. This problem only started with LR2.2, prior to that everything printed ok. Is there a separate "preferences" file that holds printer info that can be deleted and allowed to reset? I've deleted the std preferences file and allowed it to recreate, but that did no good.

I guess the next step is to try another printer. Does anyone have a suggestion as to a mid priced printer that seems to work well with LR with out all these problems?

I should also add that I tried to uninstall LR2.3 and go back to LR2.', but the Windows uninstall program did not remove all the LR pref. files.  Now LR2.' has the problem also.  What files do I need to remove when uninstalling LR2.3 to remove all preferences, etc. from the system so LR2.' will establish it's own like on the original installation?

Thanks

Jim


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## wblink

CB357 said:


> 1. Printer quality should be on the Main tab (just under Media Type etc - I'm assuming you're using a Canon printer) , and you need to select High (quality)
> 2. You get to ICM via Color/Intensity. Select Manual and the the Set button will take you to Color Adjustment. Don't select anything there, but click on the Matching tab. There you can select ICM and then Adobe RGB 1998 OR select None (you may need to experiment to see which gives you the 'best' results - I found if you're using Adobe RGB 1998 as the color space for LR2 and Photoshop, this gives good results, if you're using ProPhoto then None is the way to go
> 3. The only other thing you need to check is you paper size, orientation and quality.
> 4. Perceptual will give a slightly 'lighter' print than Relative (in my experience)
> 
> Making sure you're using the right paper profile is absolutely essential
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Chris


 
Chris, don't know where I went wrong (or maby I do, dee end of msg):

I followed your instructions from the start again, ENABLED icm (Which was off), couldn't find a colorspace dropdown-menu. Then I used my Spider profile I made for my printer (quite a tedious work!) and for the first time the preview of the print looks the same a the picture in LR: GREAT!

I think my Spider printer profile made the difference: my monitor and printer are now calibated wih spider.


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## wblink

*Use original ink-cartridges*

Oh boy,

Will Canon be happy to hear this.

My results with prints where variable. Sometimes they looked ok, other times there was al slight colorshift, sometimes the prints would look just ugly.

So they did end of last week (I don't print VERY much, but then I had to).
I spend 2 packs of Photopaper Pro to fix it without any succes. Manually shifting the Magenta out didn't make any difference at all. That triggered me: I replaced the the PhotoMagenta cartridge last WITH A ALTERNATIVE BRAND. ("WE CARE", if you know that in your country).
Since I already had spent a lot of money on the paper I thought I could (as a last resort) spend more money on all new CANON cartridges. I did and simple: it worked!
Only thing: selfmade SpyderProfile works better (for me, but that can be a matter of taste) than Canon's profile.

Bottom line: by Canon Cartridges for Canon printer ...


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## Victoria Bampton

_gymkengym, welcome to the forum!

I've moved your question to its own thread so it doesn't get lost.  http://www.lightroomqueen.com/community/showthread.php?t=6924_


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## pknoot

One more thing I'd like to add for the tip:

Turn the LCD monitor brightness down! I noticed a definite difference between my old CRT and a new LCD, even though they were both perfectly calibrated and color managed. The problem? LCD monitors come set from the factory at brightness levels of 2'' cd/m2 and over, just to make sure they work well in bright office environments. For perfect photo editing, however, one needs to be at around 9' cd/m2 (which may look very dim to some people, but will give you perfect print matching. The solution is to do your work in a suitable area that can be shielded from outside lighting. Use a Gamma of 2.2 and you're good to go!


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## Brad Snyder

Peter, agreed. I have my newest display set at 8'cd/m2 per recommendation of my Color Munki ambient measurement. That's down around 14 on the monitor's brightness adjustment. I was a bit nonplussed at first, but I'm quite happy with the results.


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## buznikon

Just received my 38'' printer yesterday, thanks to this post I saved alot of frustration and ink.. My prints were coming out dark also.. Used the suggestions of the OP and my prints are matching my monitor.. I haven't done any monitor calibration... The results are so close I don't think I could do much better.. My reason for buying this printer was so I could get quality images printed with the color balance and brightness to my liking using Lightroom. Thanks to this post that has been obtained !!!!! I have noticed that each time I use lightroom to print it goes back to the original settings.. Is this normal or is there some way to lock in the my changes in regards to the PGPP settings in the print module ?


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## sbdresner

I'm getting good results for .NEFs on HP Officejet Pro 8''' by boosting the exposure by about 1.5.


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## Maria Jesus

What about converted JPGs printing dark. I do not have an expensive printer. I have shot in both JPG and RAW and have seen that the JPGs rendered in my camera print correctly when I use the printing software, whereas when I take the same RAW file, make my adjustments and then export as a JPG it prints dark. Is this something that anyone has had experience with and can help me. I have had the same problem printing and the local labs as well.


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## Victoria Bampton

Hi Maria, welcome to the forum!

How's your monitor calibrated? Dark prints is most often too bright a monitor.


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## Samoreen

Hi,

*The problem*

When printing RAW or TIFF files from LR2, you get a printer output that is much darker than it should be and that presents various color shifts.

I'm using an Epson Stylus Pro 38'' with the latest Windows driver (6.5' - which is rather old by the way). The workaround described below works for me under Windows XP SP3. It should also probably work with other systems/printers/drivers. Use at your own (minor) risk.

*The "official" and recommended procedure for printing from LR is as follows*:

1. Do not let the printer manage colors and select "Other..." from the profile dropdown list and select the ICC/ICM paper/printer profile that you want to use. 
2. Click on Print... in LR which opens the Print Settings dialog.
3. Select the options you need and the paper you're using.
4. *Disable the color management on the driver's side* (in Epson's drivers, "Mode | Custom | No Color Adjustments").
5. Print

Unfortunately, *this doesn't work* for many of us and this produces a print that is dark and has color shifts as mentioned above. Note that the same image prints correctly from QImage or Photoshop CS3 (that is, the printer output corresponds to what you see on your calibrated display).

*Note*: If you decide to let the printer manage colors, you'll get even more problems.

Apparently, although color management has been (allegedly) disabled in the driver, there's something wrong between LR and the driver which makes that *both* LR and the driver are still trying to manage colors. In other words, the "No Color Adjustements" option of the driver doesn't seem to work with LR.

*The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and expensive ink wasting)*:

In step #4,

1. Instead of selecting "No Color Adjustments", set Mode to "Custom | ICM"
2. Click Advanced...
3. Check "Show all profiles".
4. Select Driver ICM (Advanced)"
5. Set *both* the "Input profile" and the "Printer profile" fields to the very same profile that you specified in LR.

That is, if you specified Pro38 PGPP (Premium Glossy Photo Paper) in LR, then also select Pro38 PGPP in both "Input Profile" and "Printer Profile". This has actually the same effect as disabling color management in the driver (what "No Color Adjustements" should normally take care of).

That's it. When printing, you'll get exactly the same color results as when printing from QImage or Photoshop. No more dark prints. No more color shifts.

One might think that the bug is in the Epson driver but in that case, QImage would have the very same problem. So I tend to think that the bug is on the Lightroom side.

Note: Although Photoshop CS3 produces a correct printer output, it demonstrates the same problem as LR when using the "Match Print Color" option for soft proofing. But in that case, only the preview colors are wrong. The printer output is ok. Which also tends to demonstrate that Adobe has the problem, not Epson. Or maybe both... 

Don't ask me why some users have the problem and others don't.

Hope this helps.

_*Update*_

According to my experience with LR3, this problem has apparently been fixed by Adobe (at least, this is what I observe when printing with my Epson Stylus Pro 38'').


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## Maria Jesus

Wow! Such a quick response! I am using an iMac, and have the monitor calibrated using the x-rite i1 calibrator. As this monitor does not have separate rgb controls I used the option rgb presets. It was suggested to me to use the LCD option so when I did the calibrating software did not allow me a luminance adjustment. I have so many problems with this it is driving me crazy. The thing I do not understand is when I go outside of lightroom and open the printer wizard the jpgs that came from my canon come out perfectly, as I see them on screen. That seems to say that the problem is somewhere in lightroom. I must be missing some adjustment or could be a bug. If I go an print the same image that I exported from Lightroom using lightroom software or take the exported jpg to a lab it comes out dark. To put an analogy on it, it seem like the historgram was reduced from a full range of tones to just the bottom 2/3rds taking out all of the tonal range I had before. Thanks so much for your help. I like using lightroom and think it is a great product but it can be a hair puller!


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## Robiz

At the risk of appearing dull may I add my recent experience? Intel iMac 24" with an Epson R24'', Epson inks and Prem. Glossy paper.
I "upgraded" my iMac to Snow Leopard. It had been printing perfectly well with the R24'' but had taken time to set up last year. Suddenly I was back 12 months with heavy colours, poor tone control and incorrectly positioned images on the paper. I read literally hundreds of posts on many forums, and one finally helped. It advised searching the profile lists using the ColorSynch Utility (Finder &gt; Utilities). Run the colour synch 'first aid' and let it verify the profiles. I had two bad profiles; Epson R24'' normal the second was EW-sRGB. In the "Profiles" listing there was also a document called Stylus photo R24''.prm. I could not find any information on this, so took a chance and placed it in the trash with the EW-SRGB profile. 

Here's the Standard.icc profile ID or locator strip; Tag 'dmnd' is in red print and describes the fault. Start in Macintosh HD.

/Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/ICCProfiles/SPR24''_A.profiles/Contents/Resources/SPR24'' Standard.icc
  Tag 'dmnd': Tag size is not correct

I can't get this into the Trash, it's found in ColorSynch in the Profiles section under the drop down menu for "Other" at the bottom of the profiles.

I ran a test print. Unlike previous attempts the R24'' now prints at normal speed, not draft speed. The print colours and tones match my monitor. Me happy, finally.


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## Robiz

Sorry I can't get back into the post to amend it. I should also add that the drop down options menus which had been missing from my pre printing choices, have all reappeared, enabling a more comprehensive adjustment.
I hope this helps.


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## Denis Pagé

:icon_idea: To modify a post, top right of your own post is a "Modify" link...


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## Famafoto

What about the Canon PixmaPro 9'''. Also my reds are way off. Much darker on the screen then on prints. I did a nice shot of the Boston/TD Garden and the light tails on the bridge. When I print it out the reds are more orange...I turned the red up all the way, help a bit. Used Spyder 2 Express to Cal. my LCD.


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## Victoria Bampton

Are you using proper printer profiles famafoto? What settings are you using?


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## Famafoto

someone had a great link to a step by step config for an Epson...would love to see one for the PixmaPro 9'''. To many options to setup with the Drivers and software. I have alos found, that when I make a change to the printer, page setup in LR does not save. I have to make the changes from the control panel and printer options to make them save. It looks like most photogeaphers use Epson.


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## RikkFlohr

I use the Pixma Pro 9''' and my prints match very well with my display. Here are my steps.

Select Page Setup in LH Panel
Select Printer Properties
Main Tab, Set Color/Intensity to Manual
Click [Set…] Set Matching Tab to "None"
Set "Media Type:" to match your paper.
Select 'Page Size' on "Page Setup" tab to correct size
Click [Ok] until back to LR.

Print Job Panel on RH Side:
Under Color Management:
Set Profile: to your particular paper profile (supplied by Canon or your Paper Manufacturer)
Set Rendering Intent: Perceptual.

Click [Print…]

When I follow these steps, my print matches my monitor. My monitors (LCD) are calibrated every 9' days by Spyder 2. 

If your prints are dark, you have your monitor brightness set too high.
If your prints are off on color, you have a bad monitor calibration or are using the wrong profile.

I hope this helps and solve your problem.


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## Famafoto

Thanks for the information, I'll check my settings. I think that is what I have. I'm going to change my paper to all the new Platnum II Paper. This way I don't have to change the paper settings. Just the Print size. The one thing that mixes me up, when in LR for the paper profiles, I can't match them up with the paper. i whish they listed by name and not by numbers. Now it may me simple, and I'm just over reading it?

Is the Spyer 2 the same as Spyder 2 Express? That is what I have.


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## RikkFlohr

Here is a breakdown of Canon Manufactured Paper Profiles: 
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/c...ortDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=267&modelid=12892 (watch the wrap)

The profile key is near the bottom


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## Famafoto

When I click on your link, I get just the support page. Where should I go after that?


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## RikkFlohr

Ah yes, Canon and their top secret links. Why they refuse to let people link to their product information is beyond me. It makes it hard for people to help others.
You can type in "Print Profiles" into the "Please Enter your Question:" box, follow the links and read the full two page document with diagrams.
I have copied and pasted the pertinent text here for you: 




*(1) Printer model name*
*(2) Media type*
Each alphabet pair represents its respective Media type.
PR = Photo Paper Pro and Pro II
SP: = Photo Paper Plus Glossy
MP: = Matte Photo Paper
SG: = Photo Paper Plus Semi-gloss
GL: = Photo Paper Plus Glossy II
PT: = Pro Paper Pro Platinum

*(3) Print quality*
The numbers correspond to the numbers on the print quality slide bar in the [Custom Quality] dialog box opened from the [Main] tab of the driver. The lower the number, the finer the quality


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## Famafoto

Thanks, Thanks, and Thanks.  This has helped me so much.....your the best....Again, Thanks - Steve


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## RikkFlohr

I've printed those Paper Profile Description Keys and physically taped them to my printer. Whenever I load the paper, I can look at the package and the key and know which profile I want to use.

Glad it worked out.


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## Famafoto

I printed a photo last night. My photos Looks better, my reds are still off a little (more like orange on the print. Nice dark reds of the car trails on the screen) All the other colors look great. I'm going to re-cal my monitor tonight. 

I'm now thinking it is my new PC. Color was better on my XP 32 machine. I upgraded to Vista/Win 7 64 bit back in july. Colors were off, then I got my spyder 2 express. LCD is the same (Samsung Syncmaster T22'). Maybe I should get the new Spyder 3 Pro?

Anyway, again thanks - Steve


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## bobnudd

Hi I am having a similar problem getting prints to match my screen in Lightroom 64bit for Vista. At the moment, the prints are coming out darker, and with a slight orange cast. I can't work out why they are darker and why reds and fleshtones seem to have an orange cast. I have printed the same images off on a different printer and they come a closer match to my on screen versions and in Photoshop CS2 with better success.

Using
Lightroom 64bit 2.6
Vista
Epson PX71'w

This is what I am currently doing to produce prints:

Print module:

Colour management:
Profile &gt; I choose the profile which matches the paper that I am using.

*Print*&gt;Properties&gt;Main&gt;Choose Quality + Paper Type
         &gt;Advanced&gt;Colour Management&gt;ICM&gt;Off (No Colour Management)

*OK* Print...

Any suggestions why I am getting slightly orange reds and darker images? I have tried the suggestion mentioned so far.


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## Brad Snyder

Is the Epson driver recommended for 64bit Vista? Are you using genuine ink? If you've followed all the monitor calibration, etc. advice above, it sounds like you're doing everything right.


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## bobnudd

Hi Brad,
Thanks for your reply. I am using genuine ink etc and have followed all the suggestions in this thread. I am in the process of uninstalling the printer drivers and downloading the latest 64bit versions from the Epson site. I shall post any updates. Thanks


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## nleung

Please help. Prints via LR either color shifted to magenta/green, or cooler, desaturated, dark. Monitor calibrated with Eye-One, using Epson premium glossy PhotoRPM ICC profiles for R19'', printer and LR have latest updates.

If LR manages and printer ICM off . . . print cooler, more contrasty, slightly dark compared to original as seen on monitor.
If LR manages and printer set to "ICM advanced", using either Adobe RGB or sRGB input, perceptual intent, printer profile Epson Stnd . . . print is magenta/green shifted, overexposed
If LR manages and printer set to "ICM advanced", input and printer profile set to same icc profile as set in LR, perceptual intent . . . print closer to original but still cooler (this was recommended in an earlier blog)
If LR set to "manage by printer", printer set to "ICM Adv", using either Adobe or sRGB input results in desaturated and dark prints
If PS CS4 manages and printer ICM off . . . better skin tones but still cooler and slightly underexposed
If PS CS4 set to "manage by printer", and printer set to "ICM adv", Adobe RGB input, perceptual intent, Epson Stnd printer profile . . . better exposure but colors still desaturated.

Best print thus far in matching the monitor has been from the same photo exported as JPEG and subsequently printed using Windows, printer set to ICM Adv, Adobe RGB input, perceptual intent, Epson Stnd printer profile. This suggests that the problem is in LR as well as PS or at least something I'm not setting right.

Again, please help. I am SO frustrated and am beginning to despair of being able to use LR. Getting this problem solved would be nearly life changing. Thank you in advance for your input.


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## Brad Snyder

nleung, welcome to the forums.

Well, Lr manages and printer ICM off is the way to go, I think.

Question, does your Eye-One calibration have the capability to determine screen luminance? I.e., are you actually adjusting the monitor buttons to set the overall screen brightness to a specific target. I ask, because dark prints are sometimes a result of too-bright, but otherwise color-calibrated displays.


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## Victoria Bampton

[quote author=Brad Snyder link=topic=2863.msg61'52#msg61'52 date=12646979'2]does your Eye-One calibration have the capability to determine screen luminance?
[/quote]
The Eye One software does if you go through the advanced mode.


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## nleung

Thank you for your replies. Yes, I use the advanced mode on Eye-One. I'm still experimenting (and using lots of paper and ink). I shoot in RAW and Adobe color space. I got spot on color and brightness compared to the monitor photo when I converted the file to JPEG, kept the Adobe color space, printed it using Windows, set the Epson R19'' to ICM Advanced and chose Adobe RGB input profile, Perceptual intent, Epson standard printer profile. So, I think the calibration is ok. When I re-imported the JPEG file into LR, printed the same file with LR managing (correct icc profile chosen), and ICM off on printer, print was darker and colors seemed slightly desaturated or it could be colors subdued due to the underexposure. When I printed same JPEG file with LR managing and that workaround of same icc profile in both Input Profile and Printer Profile choices, I got better match to exposure but colors definitely shifted more to yellow. It seems prints are always somewhat off if LR is involved, which is frustrating since I want the printing options in LR. On Windows I can only print one full sized photo. There is something going off in the communication between LR and the printer


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## Brad Snyder

Hmm two points to mention.

1) FYI, with raw files, it doesn't matter what colorspace you had the camera set to. i.e. 'I shoot in raw and AdobeRGB'. The raw file is the same whether you choose AdobeRGB or sRGB. There is a smaller second-order effect, in that the camera back LCD and histogram, and the JPG preview embedded in the raw will be affected by this setting.

2) Be absolutely sure that you're not accidentally applying some sort of develop preset when re-importing the JPG back into Lr for comparison purposes. Likely, you've already checked, but worth mentioning.

The difficulty with these sorts of problems, is that they're so much easier solved sitting down together at the PC, rather than this back and forth via posts. Lots of nuance is lost in the text exchange.


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## nleung

Good point about the presets but none were applied. I completely agree that problem solving via posts is not ideal and sitting with someone with some expertise would probably solve or identify the problem within a day. I can't seem to find such a person yet. Someone suggested to develop a preset to compensate for the color/exposure shifts, but then, it rather defeats the purpose of having an easy to use printing module. I looked into calling Adobe customer service but not ready to pay the price yet (it's a lot). Although, I probably am spending as much in paper and ink! I'll keep looking and working on it. Meanwhile, any ideas yet on what I can do? Thanks.


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## msu1855

[quote author=RikkFlohr link=topic=2863.msg57641#msg57641 date=12596'5652]
I use the Pixma Pro 9''' and my prints match very well with my display. Here are my steps.

Select Page Setup in LH Panel
Select Printer Properties
Main Tab, Set Color/Intensity to Manual
Click [Set…] Set Matching Tab to "None"
Set "Media Type:" to match your paper.
Select 'Page Size' on "Page Setup" tab to correct size
Click [Ok] until back to LR.

Print Job Panel on RH Side:
Under Color Management:
Set Profile: to your particular paper profile (supplied by Canon or your Paper Manufacturer)
Set Rendering Intent: Perceptual.

Click [Print…]

When I follow these steps, my print matches my monitor. My monitors (LCD) are calibrated every 9' days by Spyder 2. 

If your prints are dark, you have your monitor brightness set too high.
If your prints are off on color, you have a bad monitor calibration or are using the wrong profile.

I hope this helps and solve your problem.
[/quote]
Th
Thank you so much. This was dead on. I too Spyder Calibrate and have a Pixma 9'''. My printouts are now a perfect match.


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## Samoreen

Hi,

*The problem*

When printing RAW or TIFF files from LR2, you get a printer output that is much darker than it should be and that presents various color shifts.

I'm using an Epson Stylus Pro 38'' with the latest Windows driver (6.5' - which is rather old by the way). The workaround described below works for me under Windows XP SP3. It should also probably work with other systems/printers/drivers. Use at your own (minor) risk.

*The "official" and recommended procedure for printing from LR is as follows*:

1. Do not let the printer manage colors and select "Other..." from the profile dropdown list and select the ICC/ICM paper/printer profile that you want to use. 
2. Click on Print... in LR which opens the Print Settings dialog.
3. Select the options you need and the paper you're using.
4. *Disable the color management on the driver's side* (in Epson's drivers, "Mode | Custom | No Color Adjustments").
5. Print

Unfortunately, *this doesn't work* for many of us and this produces a print that is dark and has color shifts as mentioned above. Note that the same image prints correctly from QImage or Photoshop CS3 (that is, the printer output corresponds to what you see on your calibrated display).

*Note*: If you decide to let the printer manage colors, you'll get even more problems.

Apparently, although color management has been (allegedly) disabled in the driver, there's something wrong between LR and the driver which makes that *both* LR and the driver are still trying to manage colors. In other words, the "No Color Adjustements" option of the driver doesn't seem to work with LR.

*The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and expensive ink wasting)*:

In step #4,

1. Instead of selecting "No Color Adjustments", set Mode to "Custom | ICM"
2. Click Advanced...
3. Check "Show all profiles".
4. Select Driver ICM (Advanced)"
5. Set *both* the "Input profile" and the "Printer profile" fields to the very same profile that you specified in LR.

That is, if you specified Pro38 PGPP (Premium Glossy Photo Paper) in LR, then also select Pro38 PGPP in both "Input Profile" and "Printer Profile". This has actually the same effect as disabling color management in the driver (what "No Color Adjustements" should normally take care of).

That's it. When printing, you'll get exactly the same color results as when printing from QImage or Photoshop. No more dark prints. No more color shifts.

One might think that the bug is in the Epson driver but in that case, QImage would have the very same problem. So I tend to think that the bug is on the Lightroom side.

Note: Although Photoshop CS3 produces a correct printer output, it demonstrates the same problem as LR when using the "Match Print Color" option for soft proofing. But in that case, only the preview colors are wrong. The printer output is ok. Which also tends to demonstrate that Adobe has the problem, not Epson. Or maybe both... 

Don't ask me why some users have the problem and others don't.

Hope this helps.

_*Update*_

According to my experience with LR3, this problem has apparently been fixed by Adobe (at least, this is what I observe when printing with my Epson Stylus Pro 38'').


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## Denis Pagé

Welcome to the forums msu1855!
Glad you found your solution here.


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## jking

*Re: Color shifts in Print Module with LR2*

[quote author=kjclunis link=topic=2863.msg23493#msg23493 date=12222682'3]
I tried several, if not all of the suggested work arounds to the color shift while printing from LR2. For the most part they did not work for my problem but they all had some affect on the output print.
While searching for ICC profiles, I came across this Tech note from Red River Paper:
*Color Profile Usage Tech Bulletin*
When using any ICC profile with Photoshop, *DO NOT* use your printer drivers print with preview function. We are NOT talking about Photoshop print with preview! We are referring to the printer software preview function that is available on most printers.
Photoshop's print with preview is necessary to use profiles and should provide you a sufficent view of what the print will look like. Using the Epson or Canon print with preview may cause your prints to come out with a pink hue.
You can find this on this website:
http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/bulletin.htm
I de-selected the Preview before printing and it did the trick. I hope some of you can try this to see if it works for you.
[/quote]

Thanks for posting that-- it seems to have solved my issue (Using Pixma Pro 9'''II, LR3.2 Win7 x64)
I'm glad I found this post. I knew something was interfering with turning printer color management off but couldn't figure out what it was.
Printer Print Preview was the culprit. Thanks again.

John


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## Victoria Bampton

Welcome to the forum John! Glad to hear you're sorted. This is a brilliant forum, full of wonderful tips, so do stick around!


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## vsailer

Hi, I have been following this thread to glean what to do. My prints are turning out a shade too dark, seems I have done all that I think is appropriate but still dark. Ironically I had my prints correct with my pc but changed to imac and had to start all over again. Few questions and clarifications.
-how do you change 64 to 32 bit in Lr? Does it really make any difference?
-screen calibration with spyder2 in mac where do you put the brightness? do you start with the level most comfortable to the eye them run the calibration, the brightest setting seems too bright! 
how do you set the luminance, if at all?
-one post mentioned in mac the Colorsync utility (see http://www.computer-darkroom.com/lr_13_print/lightroom_print.htm)
to change the profiles, I only see to choose the ones that are already there and do not know how to change this.
Sorry for the long post, thanks for the help. Lr 2.7
imac 21.5 in, 1'.6.4, epson stylus photo22'', nikon d8'


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