# Develop this photo



## rctneil (Apr 15, 2013)

Hi, I was at Thorpe Park yesterday and was messing about with my camera. This is not the best shot I took yesterday but wanted to upload it to ask about it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8653705382/in/set-72157633256718298/

Basically, two questions:- One regarding developing it in LR and another regarding shooting this type of shot.

1. How can I develop this to improve it in LR. It is a raw file and I have tried increasing the entire photos exposure and that improved the trains and riders immensely but the sky overbursts. Is there anything I can do to increase the exposure on the train but not the sky or other areas?

2. Considering I am very new to photography and only had my SLR since Christmas I am having a lot of trouble taking photos like the one shown. My LR library is full of examples of roller coasters against a light sky and coasters nearly silhouetted. Any sort of simple to follow guidelines on getting a better exposure in the field for this style of shot. Also if possible, could you explain the procedure of doing it for both fully Manual and in a semi automatic mode like SP as I know it would be different.

I appreciate all your help.

Thanks, Neil


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## Chris_M (Apr 15, 2013)

For point 1, you could try using the exposure adjustment brush.
In the develop module, click on the brush, then in the dropdown menu beside "Effect:", select exposure.


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## Jim Wilde (Apr 15, 2013)

Or even just using +exposure, +shadows and -highlights, maybe a bit of +whites as well.

This is a screenshot of a quick 30 second stab on the downloaded low res jpeg, I'm sure with the original raw file you'd get a much better result.


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## Mark Sirota (Apr 16, 2013)

To answer question 2: Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson.


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 16, 2013)

Mark Sirota said:


> To answer question 2: Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson.



+1  Excellent advice.


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## erro (Apr 16, 2013)

Play around with the different develop sliders in their extreme right/left positions, and you'll see just how much information there is in the image. That is: how much you can recover in the sky, and how much you can lighten the shadows. Then it is "just" a matter of selecting the correct combinations. TNG showed you a quick fix.


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## bobrobert (Apr 16, 2013)

Do a Google search for 

Video and Photographs © George A. Jardine

A worthwhile investment. However I am not sure if Peterson's book on exposure - I have both his books - will help in relation to using Lightroom.


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 16, 2013)

bobrobert said:


> Do a Google search for
> 
> Video and Photographs © George A. Jardine
> 
> A worthwhile investment. However I am not sure if Peterson's book on exposure - I have both his books - will help in relation to using Lightroom.



The book will not help in relation to Lightroom, but the OP's post has two points of interest.  Lightroom and #2: "_*Considering I am very new to photography and only had my SLR since Christmas I am having a lot of trouble taking photos like the one shown. My LR library is full of examples of roller coasters against a light sky and coasters nearly silhouetted. Any sort of simple to follow guidelines on getting a better exposure in the field for this style of shot. Also if possible, could you explain the procedure of doing it for both fully Manual and in a semi automatic mode like SP as I know it would be different."  *_

The above quoted second point is asking for help with exposure issues.  Peterson's book will indeed address that issue.


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## bobrobert (Apr 16, 2013)

It is a while since I read Peterson's books so my recollection maybe faulty. My method of exposing for the type of situation that the poster is in is to spot meter off a bright bit of the sky outside of the sun. Add +2 EV lock exposure and focus appropriately. I believe this is a method that most knowledgeable photographers practise but from memory isn't mentioned in his books?


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## rctneil (Apr 16, 2013)

I realise in the semi auto modes I can use exposure compensation and spot metering to solve the issue but how would it be accomplished in fully manual?


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## bobrobert (Apr 16, 2013)

By spot metering of a light area and moving the indicator + 2 stops and recompose to focus.


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## rctneil (Apr 16, 2013)

Ok. I thought you couldn't use different metering modes in manual?

Obviously I was wrong. Thanks


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 16, 2013)

bobrobert said:


> It is a while since I read Peterson's books so my recollection maybe faulty. My method of exposing for the type of situation that the poster is in is to spot meter off a bright bit of the sky outside of the sun. Add +2 EV lock exposure and focus appropriately. I believe this is a method that most knowledgeable photographers practise but from memory isn't mentioned in his books?



You are correct in both your recollection as well as in your excellent recommendation of a method.  Peterson does not (as far as I recollect) make note of a similar method, but he does cover other solutions in his section on backlit subjects.  His method is to meter your subject for a correct exposure while in manual mode, recompose and shoot.  Or, if you are in one of the auto modes (TV,AV etc) you can press the exposure -hold button and recompose then shoot.


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## bobrobert (Apr 16, 2013)

I got the feeling from reading his book that his thinking was still more of a film photographer rather than a digital photographer? He seems reluctant to update his thinking hence the reason for my initial "dismissal" of his book. Generally speaking he is a good author though he hasn't really embraced the digital world. For anyone interested in reading about the problems that diffraction causes then he thinks it isn't a problem. I think he is in a minority?


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## Bryan Conner (Apr 16, 2013)

I never thought about Peterson's apparent dismissal of lens diffraction problems.  I just went back and re-read a couple of his books and you are right, he advises to use f22 and even f32 to get the "maximum sharpness".  He gives this advice in his book "Understanding Photography Field Guide" on page 55.  And this book was published in 2009....it includes some info on digital photography, but still seems to be based in a film state of mind.

But, I still think his books are great for beginners...except for the advice of using f22-f32 to get "maximum sharpness".  I think he should have said "maximum amount of the scene in focus" and explained a bit about lens diffraction issues.  Just enough explanation to make the beginner aware would be enough.

Thanks for your input on this subject, Bob.


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